Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest is home to nearly half of the world’s remaining mountain gorillas. Photo / 123rf
Trekking through Uganda’s lush Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, I unearthed profound connections between my relationships and the gorillas I encountered. Who knew that these majestic creatures could hold up a mirror to our own lives, writes Amy Bizzarri.
At the ripe young age of 50, I found myself on the brink of a long-awaited, bucket list adventure: finally penetrating the so-called Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, armed with nothing but my wits, a pair of sturdy hiking boots, and a longstanding desire to meet our distant relatives, the gorillas.
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As I set off on this quest, I couldn’t help but chuckle at the irony – impenetrable, my foot! They clearly hadn’t met a determined middle-aged explorer wannabe with a penchant for wildlife, eager to prove that age is just a number and adventure is timeless.
Located in southwestern Uganda and bordered by the Virunga Mountains of Rwanda to the south and the Democratic Republic of Congo to the west, the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest is one of the most biodiverse ecosystems in the world.
It’s also a crucial sanctuary and home to nearly half of the world’s remaining mountain gorillas, our second closest animal relatives after chimpanzees. Despite our obvious physical differences, we share about 98% of our DNA with gorillas.
Preparing to hike this storied forest in search of gorillas requires stamina and careful planning.
I thought I had everything covered for my hike: a permit and a guide secured well in advance – I signed up for a small group trek with Intrepid Travel, sturdy hiking boots, waterproof clothing, and high-energy snacks. Insect repellent containing Deet? Check. Long-sleeved shirts and pants tucked into two pairs of socks to prevent bites? Check. Small first aid kit with antihistamines? Check. Hydration and altitude acclimation? Check and check.
There I was, feeling like the ultimate prepared, hardcore hiker, strutting confidently into the deep forest through the Buhoma gate on the park’s northern edge, when suddenly, I felt a burning sensation crawling up my pants.
Despite all my prep, these little nightmares had launched a full-scale invasion. Before I could react, my (thankfully, female) trekking guide sprang into action, yanking down my pants and swatting those fire ants dead in their tracks. I stood there, pants around my ankles, feeling embarrassed and relieved (but mostly relieved).
Once we eradicated the ant army, I pulled up my pants, dusted myself off, and continued the hike as if nothing happened.
Gorillas, it turns out, deal with fire ants all the time by avoiding ant-infested areas and grooming each other to remove any pesky invaders.
As I stepped further into the lush, green wonderland, every turn revealed a new surprise. I spotted a dazzling great blue turaco with its striking blue and green plumage. I marvelled at the towering giant lobelias, their tall spikes of flowers standing out in the dense greenery.
My anticipation turned into utter awe when I finally encountered a family of mountain gorillas, the Mishaya gorilla group, going about their daily life in a small clearing.
I stood behind a thick tree, about two metres away from the family. The rustling leaves provided a perfect cover as I observed them quietly, doing my best not to disturb their natural rhythm. They barely noticed or cared about my presence, continuing their interactions and playful antics as if I were just another primate of the forest.
Gorillas form lifelong bonds with their family members and even distant relations, much like humans do. My heart raced with pure wonder and amazement as I quietly watched the family’s nine members – one silverback, five adult females, one relatively new arrival, and two playful infants.
The gorilla mums of the Mishaya family, with their dark, dense fur, expressive brown eyes, and graceful yet strong builds, effortlessly cared for their young while navigating the thick forest.
I watched one mother swiftly guide the two infants as they balanced along a fallen tree, showing the same protective instincts I had when I crossed busy Chicago streets with my two kids. My daughter is now 15, and my son is 23 years old. Still, as I observed these two infant gorillas, with their fluffy black fur, inquisitive eyes, full of curiosity and excitement, and tiny hands and feet that gripped the tree with surprising agility as they wobbled and regained balance with a bit of help from mum, I recalled my son and daughter’s adventurous, curious spirits. Both human and gorilla youngsters engage in play, which is crucial for their physical and social development.
Meanwhile, the youngest gorilla nestled against its mother, gripping her fur while eagerly nursing. The mum softly groomed her babe in arms with such tenderness as it snuggled into her, closing its eyes in utter contentment. This poignant scene brought tears to my eyes as it reminded me of countless nights spent rocking my own babies to sleep, feeling their small bodies relax and drift off in my embrace.
Gorilla infants are typically nursed by their mothers for about three to four years, a time that’s critical for the infants’ emotional and social development as they learn essential behaviours and skills, such as how to forage for food and how to get along with others, by staying close to their mothers.
I couldn’t help but smile at the universal language of motherhood, playfulness, and love in action.
We share other similarities with gorillas when it comes to being a mum: The gestation period for female gorillas is about 8.5 months, quite close to the nine months in humans. Pregnant female gorillas experience hormonal changes similar to human mothers, including morning sickness. Both human and gorilla mothers typically give birth to one offspring at a time.
Just as humans have extended families, gorilla groups often include aunts, uncles, and cousins, all of whom play a role in raising the young ones. Gorilla mothers in the same family, or matrilineal group, often maintain close connections throughout their lives, supporting one another through parenthood and their elder years.
One moment, I saw one of the gorilla mums gently tickling one of the infants, who responded with gleeful little grunts and attempts to clamber onto her back.
The next moment, another gorilla mum approached, taking over the grooming duty, meticulously picking through the youngster’s fur and removing tiny bits of debris.
The little ones moved freely from one gorilla mum to another, seeking comfort, play, and grooming. I felt as if I was witnessing a scene straight from my own family gatherings, when my sister, aunts, and close female friends gathered together with our kids, seamlessly stepping in to care for the little ones, playing games, sharing laughs, and offering comforting hugs.
Meanwhile, Mishaya, the silverback male leader of the family, stood on guard with an air of calm authority. He would occasionally grunt softly to keep the group together and seemed to take a particular interest in the toddler’s antics.
Protecting the family is the silverback male’s priority. Save for when he paused to pick his nose and inspect his booger before eating it, he kept a constant eye on his family, his immense strength alone an immediate warning to anyone, human or animal, who dared to come too close to his little ones.
There are a few key differences between human dads and gorilla dads: While human dads can be physically protective, too, social and emotional leadership often play a bigger role in human family dynamics. And unlike the typical human dad, who is usually in a monogamous relationship, a silverback often has multiple female partners.
Returning to my camp that evening, I was filled with an even greater respect for gorillas. My encounter with the Mishaya family highlighted the shared bonds, love, and communal care that exist within both human and gorilla families. It was a heartwarming reminder that, despite our differences, we share fundamental values and connections with our primate relatives. I left feeling that we need to protect gorillas and endangered species more than ever because, ultimately, they teach us more about ourselves.
Despite a few mosquito bites, I had successfully penetrated an impenetrable forest, an achievement that made this human mum proud. I couldn’t wait to share my adventure and photos with my own two human kids.
When trekking to the Bwindi Forest in search of gorillas, choose a travel company with a strong commitment to giving back to local communities and supporting conservation efforts. Intrepid Travel, for example, partners with Rainforest Rescue to drive conservation efforts while offering life-changing experiences for travellers.
Consider donating to (Charity Navigator five-star rated) charities that support gorilla conservation, such as the African Wildlife Foundation (AWF), which works on conservation projects across Africa, including efforts to protect gorilla habitats and promote sustainable development in local communities, or the Gorilla Rehabilitation and Conservation Education Center (Grace), a charity that rehabilitates orphaned gorillas.
GETTING THERE
The Bwindi Impenetrable Forest is located in southwestern Uganda, along the border with the Democratic Republic of Congo. It’s part of the larger Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, known for its rich biodiversity, and is a Unesco World Heritage Site. The best airport to fly into is Entebbe International Airport (EBB). From there, you can take a domestic flight to Kihihi Airport or Kisoro Airport, which are the closest to the park. The drive from Entebbe to Bwindi can take about 8-10 hours, so flying is quicker. You need a gorilla trekking permit, which you can book through the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA). For international travelers, it’s often easier to book through a registered tour operator. I participated in a small group trip organized by Intrepid Travel. For accommodations, I recommend Four Gorillas Lodge: It’s located in the Rushaga sector of the park and is only about 10 minutes away from the gorilla tracking starting point, making it very convenient for trekkers.
DETAILS
International flights returned to Hamilton for the first time since 2012.