Anse Source d'Argent in the Seychelles is smattered with gargantuan boulders that create winding passages, natural arches and tunnels to private slips of sand. Photo / 123RF
A trip to the Seychelles - despite its reputation for being expensive - can easily be done on the cheap, writes Julia Hammond.
If you’ve ever tried to imagine what paradise looks like, then get up early on the sleepy Seychellois island of La Digue. Grab your bicycle and pedal along a quiet back road shaded by trees until you reach Grand Anse, where granite boulders line a fat crescent of wheaten sand. The peeling paint on a battered sign advertises fresh coconuts, but it will be several hours before someone arrives to sell them. The many footsteps that scuff the surface of the beach suggest that there’ll be no shortage of customers when they do.
Fallen branches of palm trees form a makeshift path that beckons over the headland. It passes a pond where skinny coconut palms and weathered slabs of rock are reflected in the still water. The trail continues; sometimes a narrow strip of sand that’s barely wide enough for me to squeeze through encroaching vegetation, other times a scramble up a rocky slope.
The reward is Petite Anse. When I get here, mine are the only footprints. Though others have been here before me, the receding tide has wiped away any trace of their presence.
In the soft light that follows the dawn, languid waves half-heartedly lap the shore, leaving tiny lace-like traces of foam that dissolve into the wet sand almost as quickly as they appear. As the sun musters strength, the sea brightens to a vivid turquoise. Luxuriant vegetation hints at tropical downpours but there is barely a cloud in the sky as I swim in the limpid water.
This became one of my favourite spots on La Digue: a million-dollar view that cost absolutely nothing. In fact, most of the island’s beaches are free. One notable exception is Anse Source d’Argent which forms part of L’Union Estate. This drop-dead gorgeous part of the coast polls well with visiting travellers, often ranking high on lists of the world’s best beaches. To see what all the fuss is about, you’ll need to pay an entrance fee of 115 Seychelles rupees (NZ$14), though I’d venture you’ll think it’s worth it.
Your ticket covers more than the beach itself, including a stroll through a shady vanilla plantation. Coconuts are also grown here. The dried white pulp, called copra, is milled to produce coconut oil and you might catch a demonstration.
You’ll definitely want to visit the estate’s Aldabra giant tortoises. These wrinkly old beasts were once found in large numbers all over the Seychelles until they were hunted almost to extinction. Today, the largest wild population – numbering more than 150,000 – can be found on the outlying Aldabra Atoll, but the cost of getting to this distant region is out of the reach of budget travellers. However, cycling around to the east side of La Digue one morning, I got lucky. I stopped for juice at an oceanfront bar; when I returned to the bike racks, a giant tortoise had taken up residence beside my back wheel. What was supposed to be a quick pitstop turned into an exercise in patience as I waited for it to finish its business and amble off.
Cash-strapped travellers will be pleased to learn that island-hopping is affordable. La Digue is connected to both Mahe and Praslin, the archipelago’s two largest islands, by a regular ferry service. While not dirt cheap, it’s not what you would class as eye-wateringly expensive either. On Praslin, a 15-minute ride away, you’ll find the Vallee de Mai, a Unesco-listed nature reserve that’s home to the largest seed in the world. Known as the coco de mer, it often elicits a giggle from visitors as its shape resembles the smooth curves of a pert derriere. Several hiking trails, varying in length between 1.5 and 4km, wind through the lush 19.5ha palm forest. Though it’s possible to book a tour, there’s really no need as the bus stops right outside the entrance, where you’ll pay SCR450 (NZ$55) to get in.
Over on Mahe, there are a number of reasonably priced visitor attractions that can be slotted in between your beach days. In the capital, Victoria, learn about the nation’s past at the National Museum of History; entrance costs SCR150 (NZ$18). A kilometre away, the National Botanical Garden provides an introduction to Seychellois flora, with 280 endemic and ornamental plants to admire. Entry costs SCR250 (NZ$30) for non-residents. Le Jardin du Roi, above Anse Royale, is a wonderful spice garden boasting a small museum; tickets cost SCR150 (NZ$18).
Mahe’s La Plaine St Andre is the home of Takamaka rum. The history of this plantation can be traced back to 1792, and the rum that’s bottled today draws on this rich heritage and Creole traditions. Once, cinnamon, vanilla, coconut and patchouli were produced for export to Europe; now, local ingredients are used to flavour the rum. Guided tours of the estate are free; rum tastings can be added for SCR125 (NZ$15) per person.
If you prefer to drink tea, then you’ll want to visit the SeyTe factory in the hills above Port Glaud. A short tour provides an overview of the processes from drying to packing and there’s a small shop if you’re keen to buy some flavoured teas to take home. There’s a stellar view over the coast from up here. Hike through more of the verdant Morne Seychellois National Park, following the Morne Blanc or Copolia trails, to explore the island’s mountainous interior. Watch where you tread: the tiny Gardiner’s Seychelles frog, found above 150m, is only the size of your fingernail.
The Seychelles has a reputation for being expensive. Rooms at one of the many five-star resorts set you back at least a couple of thousand dollars a night, while a secluded villa on a private island can easily run to five times that amount. But it’s also possible to holiday here without spending that kind of money. A budget of around NZ$100 a night buys a basic inland double in a simple guesthouse, while for NZ$250, there are plenty of beachfront hotel rooms and small apartments. Check the small print: many places throw in watersports gear too. On Praslin, I stayed at Palm Beach Hotel, right on Grand Anse beach. Ocean-facing rooms start at around NZ$220 but the sunset is priceless. On La Digue, it’s possible to find a self-catering apartment for as little as NZ$150, though I splurged in a spacious poolside bungalow at Cabanes des Anges (from NZ$310). Mahe also has plenty of budget accommodation. Base yourself somewhere like Beau Vallon, a lively resort town on the island’s north coast, where a night at the Oceanic View Apartments within walking distance of the beach would set you back about NZ$170.
The biggest outlay for your Seychelles trip is likely to be the airfare, so lock this in as far in advance as you can. Check deals on flights with Emirates via Dubai, Etihad via Abu Dhabi or Qatar via Doha. In addition, Turkish Airlines flies direct from Istanbul; fares with Kenya Airways and Ethiopian can also be very reasonable. Though there are domestic flights between Mahe and Praslin; most people take the cheaper Cat Cocos ferry. It takes about 75 minutes and costs SCR840 (NZ$105) each way. From Praslin, it’s a short hop to La Digue for SCR170 (NZ$21).
On Mahe and Praslin, make use of the local buses which are a cheap and efficient way to get around. Easily recognisable in their blue livery, schedules and stops can be found online and you can pay per ride on the bus. Alternatively, make life easy with a visitors card for SCR 250 (NZ$30) which is good for 16 rides and can be topped up. There are no buses on La Digue – it’s too small. Most travellers hire bicycles for about SCR150/day (NZ$18). Stan Bike Rental near the jetty in La Passe gets good reviews, but check with your accommodation before making a booking as many throw in use of a bicycle at no extra charge.
For more to see and do, visit tourism.gov.sc
